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MARGHERITA OTTO-Barolo-Monforte-2016

799,00 DKK

Allan Manley har arbejdet (og arbejder stadig) de seneste ti år som Maria Teresas højre hånd på Bartolo Mascarello. Han begyndte at lave sin egen vin på “forsøgsbasis” i årgang 2012 og den første officielle årgang var 2015. Stilen er naturligvis inspireret af Mascarello med lang gæring, lagring på brugte fade, primært botti o.a.

2016: A classic, cool year of excellent potential.

However, not a “Vintage of the Century,” no matter what the wine magazines say. The winter and spring were normal, with good precipitation to replenish the water tables after the dry and hot 2015 growing season. A burst of heat around the flowering and a week of warmth over the July-August cusp were the only sustained heat events of the year; this was a very excellent growing season marred only by a few oidium outbreaks. The critical ripening period were warm days and cool nights with excellent, stable weather that made for an easy harvest conducted under optimal conditions. As always, the field-sorting of fruit during the picking was critical to a good outcome in the cellar.

The critical difficulty in 2016 was overproduction – after several vintages of below-normal yields, the vines exploded in 2016. Careful management of the vegetation was absolutely necessary to a good result in 2016. Crop thinning was performed after the flowering, when may single new shoots had set 3-4 flower bunches; ideally, there should be one per shoot. A second pass through the vineyards after the invaiatura (veraison) was necessary to bring the yields under the legally mandated limits. Any imperfectly colored bunches were removed at this point.

Pernanno and Sotto-Rionda were harvested on October 12; Ginestra on October 16. This wine was also made in the rented cellar, the same as in 2015. As the ripening dates were so close together, they were fermented together (the Ginestra fruit was simply added on top of the already-fermenting Pernanno and Sotto-Rionda fruit in a single concrete tank). Total maceration time was about 38 days and the wine went through malolactic fermentation in steel as there was no wooden botte to be rented that year. The wine spent about 10 months in the steel tank with several rankings before being transferred to the Margherita Otto cantina as soon as the new facility was ready in late August 2017. The wine was put into a single 25hl Mittelberger botte, a single well-used tonneau of 500L and a single old barrique of 225 liters.

The wine was bottled on April 29, 2020 and released in June 2020. Production: 20 double-magnums, 535 magnums and 3200 bottles.

94+
Monica Larner – The Wine Advocate – juli 2020

The Margherita Otto 2016 Barolo (with 3,600 bottles produced) is a firm and tightly knit expression with a solid center of gravity. The wine offers a dark and robust textural fabric with a pretty interlay of dark fruit, dried cherry, plum, licorice, crushed rock and balsam herb. You get the full package of Nebbiolo aromas, presented with elegance grace and careful balance. Thanks to that slightly darker character, I’d pair this pretty Barolo with an autumnal dish served locally that involves white truffles from Alba. 

Alan Manley’s Margherita Otto is a relatively new discovery worth keeping an eye on. Alan was able to lease a 1.6-hectare site in Vignane (in the comune of Barolo). The site had Nebbiolo, Chardonnay and Dolcetto, but the two latter grapes were ripped out and replaced with Nebbiolo. A tiny bit of the Chardonnay remains. Alan was also able to add one hectare of Coste di Rose to his portfolio. It is planted to Nebbiolo and will soon make both a Barolo and a Langhe Nebbiolo. The 2016 Barolo reviewed here represents a blend of fruit from Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba and Castiglione Falletto. The wine sees an extended maceration of 35 days and is aged in neutral oak botti for 33 months.”

17 ++
Walter Speller – jancisrobinson.com – december 2020

Lustrous mid ruby. Savoury, complex minerally cherry fruit with hints of malt, liquorice and chalky notes. Great focus of sappy, juicy cherry fruit on the palate and lined with coating tannins. Great balance and length and just at the beginning of its evolution.”
Drink 2022–2032

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