The Estate relies on spontaneous fermentation in tank from fruit picked at moderate but not extremely low yields. Year-year-out, this allows it to produce elegant wines with great intensity yet light-footed structure as well as quite some reduction stink in their youth, much as one finds it at the famous Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm. Our attention was drawn to this fine Estate in the 2014 vintage. We featured its 2014er Thörnicher Ritsch Spätlese, one of the finest Spätlese of the vintage, as an Issue Highlight back in 2015.
In 2017, young Julian Ludes, a nephew of Hermann Ludes, joined the family Estate. After some stints at Immich-Batterieberg and Maximin Grünhaus, he completed his winemaking studies in Geisenheim a few weeks ago and will now devote himself to the family Estate full-time.
The 2010er Thörnicher Ritsch Riesling Spätlese Alte Reben was made from fruit harvested at 107° Oechsle on 70-year-old and partially still un-grafted vines in the historic part of the vineyard, and was fermented down to fully sweet levels of residual sugar (90 g/l). This bright yellow colored wine offers a beautifully engaging nose made of starfruit, grapefruit sorbet, apricot, almond, and citrusy elements. The wine is superbly pure and elegant on the palate, where a searing expression of zest is nicely buffered off by some waxy sweetness. The finish is long and vibrant. The after-taste proves multi-layered and gorgeously persistent. This may be a tad heavy to fit the mold of a classic Spätlese, but it is a terrific expression of racy Auslese. Now-2035 94 point Mosel Fine Wines